#ThisIsAppalachia: Appalachian Food and Foodways

By Garrett BlaizeAs the holidays approach, we at Appalachian Community Fund are thinking of nourishment and gratitude. Throughout the history of Appalachia, our foodways have served as a vital source of nourishment for the peoples that have called these mountains home as well as for the movements that have shaped life in Appalachia. The Origins of Appalachian FoodWhile the stories of the indigenous peoples of the Appalachian mountains are often overlooked in the larger story of Appalachian food, their influence can be seen with those staple crops of the Native American diet, the “three sisters” corn, beans, and squash who’s cultivation were pioneered by indigenous people across the Americas. The predominance of the staples is perhaps best exemplified in soup beans and cornbread, a dish that has come to embody Appalachian food in general. A People’s CuisineAppalachian food has been influenced by the long history of the region’s laboring classes and labor movements. Appalachian food is known for being hearty and dense in carbohydrates, this is not by coincidence but rather demonstrates how Appalachian food developed to sustain hard-working people; the homesteaders, homemakers, farmers, miners, and loggers whose livelihoods have dominated the rhythms of life in modern Appalachia.In recent years increased attention has been paid to the impact of Appalachia’s laboring people on its food traditions. The Appalachia’s Food Summit 2018 theme: Cornbread and Roses, highlighted the integral relationship between the Appalachian labor tradition and Appalachian foods. One notable example: traditionally preserved foods historically helped supply striking mineworkers with food when strikes resulted in disruptions to food supplies. Preserving Traditions In the mountains of Appalachia, canning and preserving have always been essential. Pickles, jams, jellies, preserves, and potted meats remain famous hallmarks of Appalachian food. This tradition is symbolic of the resilience of Appalachian people and our tendency to “make do” even in periods of scarcity and adversity. Through programs like Rural Action’s Appalachian Staple Food’s Initiative, Appalachian organizations are continuing this tradition by working to build sustainable and resilient food systems throughout the region. Similarly, Berea College’s Grow Appalachia Program works with community-based organizations like Hindman Settlement School in Hindman, Kentucky, to build and sustain local food systems. Beyond preserving food, a new generation of Appalachian chefs and farmers are working to preserve Appalachia’s diverse foodways with organizations like the Appalachian Food Summit and the Southern Foodways Alliance working to reinvigorate scholarship and practice of Southern and Appalachian food traditions. In 2019 the Southern Foodways Alliance and the Cockayne Fund commissioned  Higher Ground, a community theatre program based in Harlan County, Kentucky, to create their play “Perfect Buckets” which was performed at the Southern Foodways Alliance conference in Oxford, Mississippi, and in many community venues throughout Kentucky. A Culinary Renaissance In 2016 Appalachian food was rediscovered by the nation at large, with The Washington Post heralding Appalachia as “the next big thing in American regional cooking” and Appalachian chefs like Sean Broc and Travis Milton receiving glowing reviews in the national media. That same year Roni Lundy released her cookbook Victuals (pronounced vi-dls) to national acclaim. Victuals is a stunning testimony to Appalachian food in its diverse forms. This shift has elevated the status of humble Appalachian food staples like ramps and morels that have long been celebrated across Appalachia. You can attend the annual Ramp Festival at the Great Smoky Mountain National Park annual “ramp dinners” throughout West Virginia (as well as many other ramp-themed occasions throughout the region) and the Mountain Mushroom Festival dedicated to Morel mushrooms in Irvine, Kentucky. While media attention has favored a class of typically white, typically male chefs, catering to a typically upper-class clientele, Appalachian food has always been a diverse and varied field, having drawn from the influences of the multi-ethnic, multicultural, working-class immigrant families that built Appalachia. In recent years Lee Initiative awardee chef AuCo Lee has pioneered the use of Appalachian ingredients in Asian dishes. In another example of culinary fusion, “Mexican-Appalachian” restaurants have become popular fixtures in towns across the region. Community LifeAcross cultures, food is a symbol of community and togetherness, and this is especially true of Appalachian food. For one example of how Appalachian Community Fund’s work relates to Appalachian food traditions and how Appalachian food traditions relate to Appalachian social movements, you can read about our grantee partner Gwen Johnson and her work at Blacksheep Bakery in Letcher County, KY here.Share your recipes with us.Appalachian Community Fund wants to hear from you! We will be collecting recipe submissions from our friends, followers, and partners throughout the region and sharing them throughout the holiday season. To submit your favorite Appalachian recipe, email belinda@appalachiancommunityfund.orgBelow is a list of cookbooks recommended by the ACF team for anyone who wants to dive into the world of Appalachian food in a more practical sense.The Food We Eat, the Stories We Tell, Edited by Elizabeth S. D. Engelhardt and Lora E. SmithKinfolks and Custard Pie by Walter N. LambertVictuals by Roni LundiThis article was compiled by Garrett Blaize, The Appalachian Community Fund’s Grants Manager (garrett@appalachiancommunityfund). Contact Walter Davis, walter@appalachiancommunityfund if you have a positive story about people, places, and things in Central Appalachia.